Bart, formerly of Iraq

Here's Bart's final report from Iraq:

I've just left Baghdad. My time was fairly short, as I was filling in temporarily. I may go back. I briefed my successors and wished them luck. They'll need it. I thank all for their posts of support.

The Green Zone is a curious place. Next to the Republican Palace, leading to the little PX, the Burger King, the Pizza Inn and the crumby Romainian gyro shop, you find two large parking lots. They're guarded 24/7 by the Gurkha's, who, incidentally, live in squalid conditions in the part of the Green Zone that is most exposed to insurgent fire. Every morning in the parking lots, you see a strange ritual, as a lot of people are bending over and checking under their cars. They're checking for bombs, which you're supposed to check for everyday day before you get in the car. Even though your car will probably get searched at least twice more, and thoroughly, for bombs anywhere you go in the Green Zone.

There are similarities to what Vietnam must have been like. The enemy is everywhere and nowhere. People get pissed when they close the swimming pool because of actual or expected mortar fire. Every night there are high stakes poker games next to the pool. People with some time off covort in the pool, while down the street guys go out in various convoys, risking their lives. Go to the Assassin's gate and you'll see helicopter gunships dropping flares and sometimes hear small arms fire.

A sign at the pool sums things up: NO DRINKING WHILE ARMED.

I'm not very hopeful about this Iraq situation. I have no idea what to do. If we leave now, there will probably be a civil war and a massacre that will make Rwanda look like a grade school picnic. But if we stay for 2, 5, 7 or more years, the result might be the same.

Two things about the Iraqi's. I've been really surprised, and shocked, by the intensity of the ethnic hatred they have for each other. A couple of weeks ago, two Iraqi's told me they would love it if all the Kurds "disapeared." They meant it.

The second thing, and this was no surprise, is that virtually every Iraqi I talked to (admittedly, these are middle-class, educated, English speaking, so a small slice of the populace) wants to leave Iraq. They beg every American they encounter for a visa (the Embassy isn't giving any). One of the most amusing conversations I overheard happened to be one where two Iraqi's were begging a KBR plumber to bring them to his house in the U.S. "You're a powerful man, you can influence the Embassy" they constantly repeated. It was funny and sad at the same time.

I've heard up to 1.5 million Iraqi's are living in Jordan. Strikes me as a bit of an exaggeration, but there is no doubt that a lot of the productive middle class has fled abroad and will continue to do so.

What passes for a government here doesn't seem to be composed of George Washington/Samuel Adams founding father types. These guys need our help to wipe their asses. And if we're not constantly watching them, they'll steal the toilet paper. I get the feeling we've been down this road before.

I don't have a clue as to how we can make this thing better. One suggestion: we have to hold our brillant neocon policymakers, who've gotten us in this mess, and the Bush administration, accountable. Put all the pressure on them we can. Presure them and their supporters to go over and serve. Make them put their money, and lives, where their mouths are. We're up to our neck in it, and I think the people who did the most to get us in to this should do the most to get us out.

Bart out of Iraq

Other reports from Bart:

Convoy wiped out, media silent

Embassy Without An Ambassador

Valley Girls in Iraq (posted at TAS)

Perverse Incentives

The Rock of Baghdad

Star Wars Cantina (posted at TAS)

Two Kurds walk into a bar (posted at TAS)

Demarche of Bethesda (posted at TAS)

Bart of Iraq (posted at TAS)

Report from Iraq (posted at TAS)